PROVINCE
OF BATANES
Capital: Basco
Land Area: 230 square kilometers
No. of Towns: 6
Batanes, the smallest province in the Philippines in
terms of population and land area consists of ten tiny
islands and islets located about 162 kms. north of the
Luzon mainland. Of this island group, the largest and
most economically important are Itbayat, Batan and Sabtang.
Five islets, namely, Siayan, Mavudis, Diogo, North Island
and Y'ami form the northernmost frontier of the Philippine
archipelago, Farther north, only 46 miles away from
Y'ami is the southernmost tip of Taiwan. Two islets,
Ivuhos and Dequey are situated south west of Sabtang.
Almost one-half of Batanes are hills and mountains.
Batan island, with a land area of 35sq. kms., is generally
mountainous on the north and southeast. It has a basin
in the interior. Itbayat Island, which has a total area
of 95 sq. kms., slopes gradually to the west, being
mountainous and hilly along its northern, eastern coast.
As for Sabtang, mountains cover the central part of
its 41 sq. km. area, making the island slope outward
to the coast. The islands are situated between the vast
expanse of the waters of Bashi Channel and Balintang
Channel, where the Pacific Ocean, merges with the China
Sea. The area is a sealane between the Philippines and
Japan, China, Hongkong and Taiwan. It is rich with marine
resources, including the rarest sea corals in the world.
Toward the end of the Spanish regime, Batanes was made
a part of Cagayan. In 1909, however , the American authorities
organized it into an independent province. Because of
its strategic location, the Batanes island group was
one of the first points occupied by the invading Japanese
imperial forces at the outbreak of the Pacific War.
The Batanes Islands are a special place. Isolated from
the rest of the country by miles of rough ocean, they
have evolved into a truly unique destination--unlike
any other island in the Philippine archipelago. The
land is different--windswept hills and boulder-hemmed
shores that lure, challenge and haunt. The people are
different--a brave and skillful race of hardy, inscrutable
survivors. The weather is different. In fact, the weather
is king. Everyone and everything steps aside. The houses
are different--stone walls, whitened with lime and roofed
in thatch. The boats, the language, the crafts, the
wine--all different. These islands have been compared
to New Zealand, Ireland and the Scottish Highlands.
They are not typically tropical. For some, they are
a little too laid back, a little too unpredictable.
The best laid travel plans have a way of going awry
on these islands. So, you must make time for the Batanes.
An Ivatan once said: "When you're on the Batanes,
enjoy the Batanes. Don't worry about getting home".
These islands grow on you, but you must wait and watch
for your rewards - not a bad lesson for those of us
who are sure we are the center of the universe. Once
touched, you learn to enjoy the timelessness of these
islands. For you, life can never be the same again.
You know you'll return someday.
LAND
AREA
The total area of Batanes is estimated at 23,000 hectares
(230 square kilometers), a size that is only a third
of that Metro Manila. Batan, Itbayat, and Sabtang islands
make up 90 percent of the province's land area. They
are likewise the only inhabited ones. The rest of the
province consists of the islands of Duquey, Ivuhos,
Mavudis, Diogo, North Island and Y'ami. Ivuhos and Mavudis,
while unpopulated, are used as communal pasture areas
by residents of nearby Sabtang Island. Land Area by
Municipality Municipality Area (Has.) Percent Share
Basco 3,550 15.43% Mahatao 1,290 5.61% Ivana 1,180 5.13%
Uyugan 1,550 6.74% Sabtang 4,070 17.70% Itbayat 9,290
40.39% Islets 2,070 9.00% In contrast to its small land
area, the province has vast territorial waters measuring
about 450,000 hectares.
TOPOGRAPHY
The province is hilly and mountainous, with only 1,631.50
hectares or 7.10% of its area level to undulating and
78.20% or 17,994.40 hectares varying in terms from rolling
to steep and very steep. Forty two percent (42%) or
9,734.40 hectares are steep to very steep land. Because
of the terrain of the province, drainage is good and
prolonged flooding is non-existent. The main island
of Batan has the largest share of level and nearly level
lands, followed by Itbayat and Sabtang, respectively.
Itbayat has gently rolling hills and nearly level areas
on semi-plateaus surrounded by continuous massive cliffs
rising from 20-70 meters above sea level, with no shorelines.
Sabtang on the other hand, has its small flat areas
spread sporadically on its coasts, while its interior
is dominated by steep mountains and deep canyons. Batan
Island and Sabtang have intermittent stretches of sandy
beaches and rocky shorelines. The terrain of the province
while picturesque at almost every turn, has limited
the potential for expansion of agriculture in an already
very small province. Tourism, Historic Churches There
are four 200-year old churches worth visiting: Santo
Domingo in Basco, San Jose in Ivana, San Carlos in Mahatao
and San Vicente on Sabtang. They are all made of massive
lime and stone construction and originally decorated
in baroque. Radar Tukon A recently rehabilitated weather
station on a hilltop in Tukon, Basco it offers a magnificent
360-degree view of Batan Island, the South Chine Sea,
Mt. Iraya, Basco town proper, boulder-lined cliffs,
and the Pacific Ocean. Sabtang One of the 12 best destinations
in the Philippines according to a coffee table book
published by the Department of Tourism. Undisturbed
and unspoiled, Sabtang exists in another time. Lime
and stone cogon thatched houses against a backdrop of
steep mountains or restless sea. Intermitted white sand
beaches and rough country trails. This is where they
make soot, the Ivatan rain cape, and the best round-bottomed
boats called fallowa. Architecture Ivatan houses are
small with meter-thick walls and foot-thick thatched
roofs. Walls are made of lime and stone to withstand
the strongest typhoons. Roofs are made of cogon which
keeps cool in the hottest weather. There are usually
two houses - one for the living and sleeping area, and
a smaller one for cooking and storing. Archeological
Attractions There are, at least, two unique features
that make Batanes a worthwhile stop for those with interest
in archeology. One is the boat-shaped burial marker,
another the stone columns. In certain parts of Batanes,
one can find burial sites marked with stones which are
laid down to the shape of the local boat tataya, with
a pit carved in the middle from limestone bedrock. The
first site was discovered in 1994 on Ivuhos Island.
Another, which yielded the skeleton of a juvenile, was
discovered the following year. In 1996, another boat-shaped
burial site which yielded the skeleton of an adult was
discovered. Carbon dating (C-14) conducted by the Geochron
Laboratories in Cambridge, Massachusetts, U.S.A. in
1995 show the remains to have been buried in 1595 A.D.
Experts say the only known boat-shaped burial markers
are those made by the Vikings, dating about 8th to 12th
centuries AD. They add that while there is no proven
connection between the ancient burial traditions, their
similarity would, at the very least suggests a parallel
evolution of maritime societies.
Food
Ivatan dishes
use ingredients that are rich and unusual. During the
off season, however, fresh food can be scare and hot
meals can be expensive. If you plan to visit during
these months, and are not part of a package tour, bring
alone some basic canned goods. Cows and goats are grazed
extensively on the islands. Garlic is a leading export,
second the cattle. Root crops such as camote (sweet
potato) gabi and a unique variety of white ube, are
raised for local consumpsion - especially in the lean
months. Sugar cane is cultivated to produce the heady
Ivatan brew, palek. From March to May, fish and seafood
are available. Dorado (arayo) and Spanish mackerel (tanigi)
are favorite summer catches. They are eaten fresh or
salted for consumption during the typhoon months. Flying
fish (dibang) is also a local specialty. Coconut crab
(tatus), spiny lobster (payi), helmet urchins (unot),
that can be enjoyed when available. Salads and vegetables
dishes are made from fern fronds (pak o), heart of banana
or dips with your food. Batanes food is simple food.
Unless you have brought your own food ready to help
in the kitchen, don't expect to be served gourmet meals.
Weather
The best season for a Batanes trip is from mid-April
to mid-May. Sometimes, the weather is nice as early
as February and as late as July. North or east winds
bring in cooler air. They also bring in weather fronts
and cloud build-ups that could cause flight cancellations.
An indian summer supposedly takes place around September.
Cool weather - a phenomenon Ivatans like to call winter
- prevails from November to January. When dealing with
the Batanes, always remember that, on these islands,
the weather often changes suddenly. Just be ready for
whatever follows your way.
Transportation
The province
can now be reached either by air or by sea. The Laoag
International Airlines (LIA), which uses Fokker 27 aircraft
flies out of the Manila Domestic Airport every Tue,
Thurs and Saturday at 6:00 a.m. It Makes a 15 minute
stop-over at the Laoag International Airport in Laoag
City, where it picks up passengers. It leaves Laoag
at 7:20 a.m. and arrives at the Basco Airport at 8:20
a.m. It leaves for Manila via Laoag City at 9:00 a.m.
for the return flight. The Chemtrad Aviation Corporation provides an alternative
air transport to the islands. It uses a 10-seater Britten
Norman Islander. It flies out of the Tuguegarao City
Airport in Cagayan province every Wednesday amd Friday.
Occassionally, it originates from Laoag City, but this
is dependent on the availability of passengers. Chemtrad
carries all postal matters to and from the province,
since it is under contract with the Philippine Postal
Corporation. The cost of air travel for the Basco-Tuguegarao
route is P2,300.00, one way. Inquiries maybe coursed
thru the Chemtrad office at the Tuguegarao Airport at
telephone number: (78) 844- 1568. Two cargo ships owned
by the Batanes Multi-Purpose Cooperative, Inc. regularly
ply the Manila-Basco sea route, bringing-in much needed
supplies, like construction materials, food stuff and
many others. Both the M/V Queen of Fatima and the M/V
Don Rudito accept passengers, although they are not
equiped as passengers ships. Its third ship, the MV
Ivatan Princess, is to be launched this month (June
2002). It is a passenger ship, with a lying- in capacity
of 300 passengers. It will ply the Currimao (Ilocos
Norte)-Calayan (Cagayan)- Basco-Itbayat and vice versa
sea route, twice a week. It will charge P820.00, one
way. Three other privately owned vessels have been trying
to provide competition to the two of the Cooperative,
but their presence is hardly felt, if at all. These
are most of the time chartered by Manila-based merchants.
Public transportation in Batanes mainland is provided
by at least 15 passenger jeepneys. Two vans, owned by
enterprising young men can be hired, although the jeepneys
could be hired also at a very much cheaper price. Travel
to the island-municipalities of Sabtang and Itbayat
(The northenmost municipality of the country) is still
by motorboat. Travel time to Sabtang is 30 minutes,
while the Basco- Itbayat route is 3 1/2 hours. Two jeepneys
in Sabtang and one in Itbayat provide public transportation
to the islanders. Lately, Chemtrad has been flying to
Itbayat. The 10-minute flight costs P750.00 one way.
Communication The Philippine Telephone Company (Piltel),
and Bayantel carry voice and data capable of domestic
and international direct dialing, although these could
only be done thru the Public Calling Office (PCO), in
all municipalities. Piltel facilities are capable of
receiving incoming calls, in its five PCOs. These are:
Basco: 533-3444 (fax); 533-3456; 198-1517 and 198-1518;
Uyugan; 198-1521 and 198-1522; Sabtang: 198-1525 and
198-1526; Itbayat: 198-1529 and 198-1530; Ivana: 198-1523
and 198-1524. If you are outside Metro Manila, dial
02 plus the number to make an appointment call to the
person you would like to talk to. If you're outside
the Philippines, dial 011-632) plus the PCO number,
also to make your appointment call. Bayantel, still
does not accept incoming calls, due to its limited facilities.
Smartlink started its operations in the province in
June 2001. Several government offices, especially in
Basco, have already installed their telephone. Approximately
150 private residences across the province also enjoy
their own telephones. Even in the remotest villages
like Chavayan and Sumnanga in Sabtang and Raele in Itbayat
enjoy the comforts of the telephone. To get the private
numbers of anybody, you can inquire from Smartlink's
office, tel. no. 0981-990-108. Electric Power Electricity
in the three islands is still provided by power generators.
In Batan Islands, where the municipalities of Basco,
Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan are located, electric power
is switched on at 6 a.m. until 12 midnight. In Sabtang,
electricity is only available from 6-10 p.m., while
in Itbayat, it is 6-9 p.m.
Language
Ivatans still use
their Austronesian language, peppered with pidgin Spanish
and spoken with the musicality of Chinese. Ivatan is
spoken on the islands of Batan and Sabtang. Itbayaten
is spoken in Itbayat. English and Tagalog are widely
spoken and understood by Ivatans, 95% of whom are literate.
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